RETAILER APPREHENSION AS TO HOW ECONOMIC CONDITIONS IN THE UNITED STATES may affect fur sales throughout North America apparently had a major effect on both traffic and business at the North American Fur & Fashion Exposition in Montreal last week, as expected. Both attendance and bookings at the four-day show appeared to be down. Official figures weren't available as of presstime, but were expected to confirm what was learned from interviews with exhibitors, retailers and other observers.

This year's NAFFEM again attracted visitors from overseas, including a number of Russian retailers and journalists. That many vendors who had done business with them last year were again prepared for them was evident in parts of their collections, notably the fuller styles and bigger sweeps, as well as added detailing such as crystals and embedded intarsia designs. For American and Western European buyers the collections featured shorter, slimmer lines and higher armholes that fit better with the closer-to-the-body ready-to-wear being shown for next fall. The slimmer look also translates into fewer skins, which keeps prices down.

In general, prices quoted by vendors were 15% to 25% higher than a year ago, the increases not always matching the rises in the skin market. This reflects vendors' efforts to keep prices down through manipulations that require fewer skins. They also combined different species, including fur trims on garments made of plates which have been described as hybrids, much like the gas/electric cars now being promoted as fuel savers as gasoline prices continue to soar. But some suppliers also had carryover inventories acquired at lower cost which still could be offered as fresh merchandise to retailers who haven't already offered those styles. Since there has been no major style change from last year, this was considered a viable option.